Afros, Afterparties, and All-Consuming Lurex: Peeling Back the Legacy of Chaka Khan
If society has one vice, a chic, edgy, bohemian icon proves to be an amiable fit. Someone who catches the eye when splashed across our records, screens, and Pinterest boards. The Queen of Funk, and her relationship with fashion, comment on the way in which looks transcend time, often simultaneously perforating many industries. From her disco styles to her whimsical ‘70s looks, Yvette Marie Stevens is an inescapable icon. Her legacy explores the nature of music and fashion’s relationship and the way in which they intersect and blur.
It was not just her great style which got our attention, but also the way in which her charisma and personality shone through. She is to some extent, somewhat of a shapeshifter. Her whimsical and spunky energy inspired us all, and still does. The pulse of the past is kept alive, as ever, through social media and the resurrection of vinyl and funk. She has famously stated “when I was in my twenties, it felt like I was riding wild horses, and I was hoping I didn’t go over a cliff.” An attitude which, whilst uncontained, is enticing. Despite many young people feeling free, it is easy to forget to actually live. Chaka Khan was the original pro at mastering the individualist look. The way in which she took on the style of the ‘bohème’, especially during the 70’s, captured us all.
Chaka Khan performs alongside Rufus in January 1970 wearing a leather bralette and pants. Her unkempt, yet naturally styled free flowing hair, all tied together with a classic 70’s headband, simply allow this trendy look to remain personalised and stylised, with a leathery urban feel. On the right, we see Ms Stevens charm her audience, live, donning some tasselled trousers. The additions on the trousers allow room for movement and body, something perfect to wear when serenading an audience, complementing the energy of a performance. This ‘hippy’ effortless and stylishly chic composition of garments still penetrates our catwalks and highstreets. The flared trousered city girls will always construct their personalised interpretations from the regurgitation of charity shop clothes.
Arguably, her love for the earthy, free and whimsical look can be seen to have roots early on in Khan’s life. Markedly, she very much lived through the impact of the Black Panthers. At home she was regularly told to get involved with protest, voicing societal truths from early on. Through a rather nostalgic lens, Khan has recalled her classic look from back in the day whilst handing out PR for the organisation. “Her father remarried, to a civil rights activist who encouraged Khan to speak at rallies; by the age of 14, she had been recruited by the Black Panthers. “I was a kid, so they really just had me selling the Panther paper on the corner, barefoot in jeans. I was totally against all the sock hops and shit my school had to offer to keep the natives quiet.” - Chaka Khan whilst interviewed by Alexis Petridis.
She goes on to state “we used to call them ‘slave gatherings.’ So, I had my combat boots on, my green khaki pants. I didn’t feel in danger – it wasn’t like that. We were doing the right thing. However, when a gun came into my hands, a .38 that I hid in my room … I’m telling you, every moment I had that gun it changed me. I felt physically sick. I threw it away into Botany’s Pond by Chicago University, then I felt better. That finished me with the Panthers”. Clearly, Stevens also come into contact with the rougher elements of protest and changing times, one which can for many put a lot into perspective, revealing the way many causes evolve and change.
Understandably, Chaka Khan’s focus shifted to her vocals and musical career. Finding a foothold in the industry is and will always be a challenge for many, however this career path merely a few decades ago was a different feat. It was one that tended to throw even more obstacles in the path of women of colour. In time, she found herself as part of the funk band Rufus. In her own words “The thing back then was to have a white band with a black chick out front – that was major money, made the club owners interested…another racist phase that passed through Chicago.” Despite this, her time with the band Rufus brought her well into the spotlight, with the group allowing Khan and her stunning vocals to rock the music industry. One must therefore, take a quick look at Khan’s time with the band.
Her cover art for the band was not only a way for Khan to publicise her vocals, but also the perfect vessel through which to advertise her fashion influences and persona. Many musical icons and bands such as Prince, David Bowie, Queen and Blondie, rocked the ‘70s, both in terms of talent and style. In fact, these legends and their utterly unique and transcendent edge when it came to their look, was what iconised their status in industry. It was an age where talent spoke for itself, but stage presence was on another level. Something we now look back on with fondness, a place where drama and spectacle were the birthplace of expression.
Whilst beaming soulfully, Chaka Khan comfortably poses in a fur-tailed and warm toned bohemian get up. Our icon dons the cover of the legendary band, perched on an almost surrealist and playful sofa. Khan’s heritage makes a natural appearance throughout her career, influencing her stylistic blend. Here, her outfit clearly includes Native American dress, perhaps a nod to her Blackfoot ancestry. This 1975 Rufus & Chaka Khan album cover for “Rufus Featuring Chaka Khan” will forever go down as a collectors favourite. The bold colour and fun composition of images will always catch our eyes and hearts, a classic for the record rack.
Despite our love of this particular album, among many, her first solo release “Chaka,” on October 12, 1978, takes the cake as the best. Like many, her struggle to obtain musical autonomy was a feat, however, this icon’s solo career flew to amazing heights, as it should. The album contained the legendary single “I’m Every Woman,” originally written by husband and wife duo Nick Ashford and Valerie Simpson, and famously recorded by Whitney Houston in 1993. Houston gives a nod to Khan whilst performing the hit, belting out “Chaka,” numerous times towards the end. Rather cyclically, the two had crossed paths before, with 14-year-old Whitney Houston singing the backing vocals on Khan’s original version, along with her mother.
Khan re-recorded the hit in 2021 as part of a duet with Idina Menzel, honoring International Women’s Day. When looking back on the experience, Menzel stated "I think it's about women supporting women. I think it's about sisterhood. Often society tries to get us to compete and tear each other down. It's about holding each other up and giving each other an opportunity to be heard and to be seen.”
Our Queen of Funk also had some high profile relationships, markedly her friendship with icon Prince. The hit song “I Feel For You” was written by the legend himself, appearing on his 1979 self-titled album. It was widely known that the singer was open to other individuals covering his lyricism, however, it was once Chaka Khan herself covered the song, that it became the most widely accepted and celebrated version of the track. Her take on the track was included in her 1984 album.
Prince himself was known as an icon of style. “I find freedom sexy. I find freedom so sexy I can’t even explain it to you,” he told NME in 1996. “You wake up every day and feel like you can do anything.” His attitude towards fashion and life was one for the books, with his love for expression allowing him to break many boundaries in regard to the perception of gender and sexuality within fashion and beauty.
You can see why two such profound legends were close friends and confidants, with both trailblazers sharing a love for life and exuberance one can only aspire to hold. If ever there is someone's words we should return to, it is that of our funk guru.
“People ask me a lot, ‘Do you have any regrets?’ Heeeck naw. If I hadn’t done all the things I’d done, I wouldn’t be the amazing human being I am today.” – Chaka Khan